Tripping More For Less(2): January 2011

To get from the Villa Farnesina to the Palazzo Corsini!
Now, while I do enjoy going to traditional style museums, I prefer a seeing a home that has become a museum; there's something about the context that gives me an extra depth of feeling. These two marvelous examples were both originally built about 1510 and, oh yeah, if you didn't understand it by now, they are directly across Via Della Lungara from each other; you know that chicken just needs - to get to the other side!

You maybe thinking, wow, he sure planned that well. Well, you'd be wrong. Other than the few obvious places to visit in Rome, I didn't plan much, and therein lies the tale. After breakfast on my fourth day in Rome, I went to my local tram stop expecting, as usual, one would arrive within minutes. I noticed a tram in the distance, but strangely it didn't seem to be getting any closer. After comiserating with a local about our situation - We are standing in front of the Ministry of Public Education, there are police everywhere and they are preparing for a demonstration - the tram is being held up indefinitely. So, rather than take the tram, I wander around Trastevere. Finding myself standing and holding a map when a nice voice asks, "can I help you?" She explains where we are and everything about where we are (she just wrote a book about this area of Rome). Pointing through an arch, just down the street, she says I have to see the Villa Farnesina right now because they close soon and so I head on down the road.

I pass under the Porta Settimiana, built in 1498 as a passageway through the
Aurelian Wall. This marks the beginning of Via Della Lungara, a long straight road
contructed in the early 16th century.

The Villa Farnesina as seen from Via Della Lungara.
Note the flags on the left; they are on the Palazzo Corsini

This looks like the place

Yep, I'm there

First thing to hit me inside - Triumph of Galatea by Raphael
Not bad; no crush of tourists, but there was a French art student to talk with!

Then I look up at the ceiling - well you get the picture!

Next room: The Loggia of Cupid and Psyche

Upstairs - an art class in the Hall of the perspectives Views

Lastly - Room of the Marriage of Alexander the Great and Roxana

Taking a few moments to enjoy the grounds while contemplating the artwork.

More pics of the Villa

More about Villa Farnesina

More pics of/from Cafe Settimiana and surrounding area. As the last pic shows, unfortunately, they (as are many eateries) closed on Sunday.

Returning through Porta Settimiana

It was a week later that happenstance found me visiting the Palazzo Corsini. After a tiresome morning at the Vatican and a restful lunch at my fav Cafe, it was only a few steps away, so why not? No photos inside Palazzo Corsini, but here is my ticket and my brochure:

The Palazzo is a grand three story building, the art collection occupies the middle floor. I say middle because, in Europe, the three floors are designated as ground, first, and second! In this case, only the "first" floor is open to the public and houses the gallery.

"Formerly called the Riario Palace (1511-18) and then Palace of Christina of Sweden (1659-89), Corsini Palace now hosts the Corsini Gallery and Library as well as the Lincean Academy (The National Academy of Science). The majestic palace that architect Ferdinando Fuga designed for Cardinal Neri and his brother, Bartolomeo Corsini, was based on the French model of the Palace of Versailles with another wing (1736-1753)." For more on the Palazzo Corsini

"The Corsini picture gallery, which has remained unchanged since the 18th century, represents the most important example of Fideicommissum. The institution prohibiting heirs from alienating works of art belonging to the family and thus the entire collection was preversed intact. The collection is also rare evidence of "collezionismo" between
the 17th and 18th centuries, but the uniqueness of its history stems from its residence
within the Renaissance Palazzo." For more on the collection

So, I spent a delight part of Friday afternoon exploring the Corsini Gallery. After the morning tumult of frenzied tourists, a quiet wave of emotional sustenance now flows over me as I allow it all to sink in. Of course, being the only visitor doesn’t hurt either. In exiting the museum I am drawn to the sunlight from a window above. It is flowing down from the third floor along the same magnificent white marble staircase I had used in ascending to the Gallery floor. Since there was no barrier, I began to climb and when almost to the top I encounter the same lovely lady who is woven through this tale. We are both stunned and yet enjoy each others company by the third floor window. I get to soak in the sun and more marvelous history of the neighborhood. Apologizes to Cab Calloway, but I felt like I was there with the Queen of Sweden; she gave me things that I was needin'.

More pics from the third floor of the Palazzo

In Rome, It's the Tiber (Tevere - In Italian)

"Most of the great cities of the world developed around major rivers" and "the history of the Tiber River is in many ways, the history of Rome itself". A River Runs Through It author Norman Maclean writes that these are superb tales which express "a little of the love I have for the earth as it goes by." It seems to me, the Italian people express much of their love though food and maybe that's why I feel such simpatico while in Italy and have made plans to return in March (hopefully the ides are kind to me). Romans also love their hills and seem to prefer hills to the river, but views of the Tiber are spectacular and I have the pictures to prove it.